
During the past few weeks, there has been much excitement in Bangalore around an art exhibition featuring just the one single canvas. This lone canvas was by the Italian painter Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. Not to be confused with the other painter and sculptor Michelangelo who painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and sculpted the astonishing David. People I know who have a smattering of knowledge of Caravaggio and people I do not know who know nothing about Caravaggio were agog. The newspapers were full of it. This one single painting is titled Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy* and was painted by Caravaggio in 1606. Obviously, the painting carries no expiry date even if the painter himself expired centuries ago; a lasting credit to our modern methods of preservation (of the painting that is, not the artist). It was displayed at the National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA) as part of its India tour. How a canvas painted in 1606 can be classified as modern art beats me, but there you go. Art has its own irrefutable logic. Did I go and take a look at this much talked-about painting that was valued at $50 million? No, I did not. Traffic jams and uncertain weather in the city, not to mention Wimbledon and the Test series in England on television put the brakes on my vaulting ambition of being an art connoisseur. Nevertheless, the NGMA reported a 20 to 30 percent increase in footfall. It is as well they had brought in just the one original canvas. Had they added one of Van Gogh’s self-portraits, particularly the one with his right ear in a bandage, the stampede would have been unmanageable. Bangalore has had its fill of stampedes in the recent past, thank you very much.
Speaking of Van Gogh and not to be outdone, there is a show called The Real Van Gogh Immersive Experience that is currently on in Bangalore. You can go there and get dazzled by audio-visually and digitally immersing yourself with the tormented genius’s life story (which is pretty grim), his famous works like Sunflowers, Wheatfield with Crows, Irises and much else. However, it is not the same as goggling in awe at the real thing (as disturbed ‘Nazi’ Peter O’Toole did in The Night of the Generals), notwithstanding the 22,000 lumens of projection technology, as advertised.
In case you are getting the impression that I am a philistine or something, let me clear the air. I have taken in and appreciated some of the most famous paintings and sculptures around the world and in India over the years. You might say ‘after a fashion,’ but you cannot visit Madrid and not pay homage to Picasso’s Guernica. I must confess all this happened after I got married and found my wife knew quite a bit about Picasso, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Monet, Manet, Matisse, Dali (what a stunning moustache!) and all those masters from Holland, Spain, France and so on. Prior to my nuptials, the only art I was exposed to was in school at art class. I would draw two mountain peaks with my crayon, a rising (or setting) sun in between the peaks, a flock of birds in flight represented by tick marks, one statutory tree (with or without some low-hanging red fruit) and a lake portrayed by a flurry of blue lines. If the mood took me, I would add a small boy or girl who looked more like a stick insect. I felt I had got the hang of impressionism! I called it A Study in Still Life. Mrs. White, our arts teacher, received my offering with mixed feelings. She would ask me to hold it up for the class and exclaim, ‘Very nice, very nice indeed.’ Then again, she was equally prone to say, ‘Rubbish. You call that a tree? Looks like nothing on earth. And what is that? A stick insect?’ See what I mean? It all depended on her mood that day and how many cigarettes she had smoked. All in all, she was much better during the afternoon classes than in the morning. I think she was a late riser.
There is another reason why I did not attend the exhibition featuring Caravaggio’s single canvas. No, it was not because I had already seen it in Rome or wherever, because I had not. Apparently, it is from a private collection, if Google is not lying. The main reason is that I have viewed it several times on my desktop in the privacy of my study, and have been able to appreciate the Master’s play on light and shade for which he was justly celebrated. Magdalene looked as ecstatic on my state-of-the-art Dell widescreen as she would have at the NGMA. No jostling crowds and worrying yourself sick over whether you have parked your vehicle in a no-parking zone. The fact that the painting was displayed in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment with enhanced security could only have made viewing that much more challenging with hordes of art-lovers and students (armed with paints and brushes) craning their necks to get a proper glimpse. Photography is banned for a variety of reasons but these instructions are usually observed in the breach. Watch those mobile maniacs go berserk shooting selfies against the ecstatic Magdalene.
As I could not, or would not, attend the Caravaggio display (frankly, calling just one painting an exhibition seems somewhat of an overstatement, but I bow to superior judgement), I was curious to glean some more vital information. Not so much about the painting itself as I could get all the dope I wanted and more from the internet. Caravaggio and the Magdalene woman were haunting me in my dreams by the time I had finished my surfing. No, I was more interested in the mechanics of how the Italian Embassy Cultural Centre in collaboration with the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art managed to get this priceless exhibit into India and what all that entailed. I called the NGMA several times before someone answered. It might have been an official as the lady was well-spoken. On the other hand, as so often happens these days, it might have been a fake person who just happened to pick up the phone and decided to have some fun. Either way, I take no responsibility for the call’s authenticity. I opened the batting.
‘Good morning, Madam. I am an art lover and would like to ask you a few questions about the Caravaggio exhibition. If you would be so kind.’
‘Are you from the press? If so, why don’t you visit us? I can try and make the time. I don’t have much time to talk on the phone.’
‘I fully understand, Madam. No, I am not from the press, but I write a weekly blog which has a wide readership of about 17 people, all very knowledgeable on art, music, literature and so on. What is more, I am suffering from a severe bout of gout and am unable to travel. I can call you later this evening, if you are busy right now.’
She seemed to have bought my gout fib; hook, line and sinker. Sounding slightly sorry, she said ‘Why don’t you call me after 8 pm tonight? That suit you?’
‘Perfect,’ I said and hung up.
As my wall clock started to chime eight times that evening, I called the lady at the exhibition centre (she shared her mobile number) before the eighth chime went. No point in dawdling and giving grace time.
‘Hello Madam, it’s me again, the art blogger.’
‘Ah yes, how can I be of help? Since you are suffering from gout and cannot be here personally, I can mail you the all the information you need on Caravaggio and Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy. Anything else?’
‘That is most kind of you, but I have access to all that on the internet. I have Caravaggio coming out of my ears right now. My line of questioning is somewhat different. And unusual.’
‘Yes?’ She sounded suspicious. ‘Go ahead.’
‘First off, since this is such a rare, precious and original work of art, how much did the insurance cost to bring it in to India? A bomb?’
‘I am sorry but I cannot divulge that kind of information. Ask me something else.’ She seemed miffed, the earlier warmth was missing. She may not be a fake, after all.
‘Pardon me if this sounds impertinent, but how do you know for sure that this Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy is the original and not a very clever copy? A lay person can’t tell the difference, what with all the enhanced technology available these days.’
‘You are right, that is impertinent. And offensive. I think I shall terminate this call and make a crank call report to the police.’
‘No, no, please don’t. I did not mean to offend or insult. I am not a crank. This is purely for academic reasons. I was trying to figure out how art galleries such as yours ensure there is no funny business. I was once staring at the Mona Lisa at The Louvre and a fellow starer told me it was not the real thing but a darned good copy. The real Mona Lisa was stored carefully, according to him, in The Louvre’s vaults. Anyone stealing the Mona Lisa on display won’t get more than 10 euros in the grey market.’
‘Very droll, I am sure. Sorry, but I cannot and will not dignify your question with an answer. I hope your gout gets worse. Good night.’
Madame Cruella! I am not a gout-sufferer but she was not to know that. Anyhow, that was that. I don’t understand why she was getting so hot and bothered. It was a simple question. She could have just said the Caravaggio was the genuine article, the Real McCoy instead of being so defensive. Now I am really beginning to wonder. I think I will call my friend in Rome to find out if the original Mary Magdalene is hiding somewhere safe and feeling ecstatic. Mamma Mia, that will be a scoop!
*My researches reveal that the title of this Caravaggio canvas is variously shown as Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy, The Magdalen in Ecstasy and Mary Magdalen in Ecstasy. Or if you prefer, La Maddalena in Estasi in Italian. I settled for the first option.








